Biriyani Blues…
Festivals or other cultural occasions help break the monotony and routine of daily life – much needed in these locked down times.
Thankfully, this has been a good month in that regard.
For in addition to it being a celebration of Asian Heritage, this was the month of Eid across large parts of the world.
One of those places is my hometown of Lucknow, India.
Famous for its culture, love of art, and for being the home of gastronomic delight, Lucknow’s cultural legacy thrives to this day through its food. Biriyani is but one example of this rich tradition.
And Eid in Lucknow – the best time to savour this delicacy !
Unfortunately, since Covid has put travel plans to sleep, a trip back in time is one way to beat the Biriyani Blues.
So let’s dig right in…
A Brief History of….Biriyani
Birian is a Farsi (Persian) word meaning “Fried” – and Biriyani, a dish that blends rice, spices, meat (or vegetables) into a succulent combination.
But wait, you may ask – doesn’t that make it quite similar to Pilaf (Pilav / Paella / Pulao) ?
Yes, it does, but there are some differences as we’ll see in a bit.
Biriyani is India’s and probably the subcontinent’s – favourite takeout food. Popular Indian food delivery service Zomato revealed that they served 22 orders per minute between Jan- Dec 2020.
That totals to a whopping 4.4 million servings over the year. After movies and cricket, this is one of the few things Indians seem to agree on.
And that’s because Biriyani is :
- A meal by itself, but can also be consumed as a snack, comfort food OR as the high point of a feast
- Both street food and haute cuisine.
- Available in many versions – mutton, chicken, beef, fish, veg
- Adaptable- most regions of India have their own take on this dish. There is no “one” national Biriyani, but many tasty ones.
Dare I say that one may tire of eating, but cannot get tired of Biriyani !
There is however, one FAQ that stirs up spirited debate among Biriyani fans. The difference between Biriyani and Pulao (Pilaf).
Pilaf v Biriyani
Rice & meat / vegetables & other spices cooked together is a very popular food combination. Originating from Turkey, it travelled across the world and is now known by various names -Pilar, Pilaf, Paella, Pulau, et cetera.
This was probably a fast, easy way to consume proteins and carbs together. It may have been one of the first one pot meals, lending itself to easy adoption by travelling armies, or nomadic tribes (much of the world was nomadic then).
Preparing pilaf is a relatively (!) straight forward process. All the ingredients are combined and cooked together, and voila, its (easier said than) done.
But what’s this got to do with Biriyani? Doesn’t that combine all of these elements too?
Indeed. Like pilaf, biriyani too is a combination of rice and other “similar” ingredients.
The difference lies in the way they are prepared.
For unlike pilaf, biriyani is cooked in a two step process.
Rice and the other ingredients are semi – cooked separately, and then, stacked in alternate layers, they’re cooked together again.
The additional oil and spices, along with the effect of slow cooking imparts richer flavour to the combination.
This second step is where Biriyani takes on its own unique identity, which differentiates it from the pilaf.
Now, because our world is as beautiful as its wide, every country / region ended up developing its own version of this dish.
This is best illustrated by Biriyani’s journey and evolution in India.
Two Passages to India…
Biriyani is believed to have reached India through two routes – through contact with Mongol – Turkic armies and the flourishing sea trade with the Arab world.
In the North and the East, Biriyani followed the Mughal influence through the course of their empire, even as the Arab origin version evolved independently in the South and West
Map 1 : Biriyani routes to and within India
Source : http://indiahistoryspeaks.blogspot.com/2007_11_17_archive.html
With the passage of time, most regions shaped biriyani according to their local culinary heritage, which resulted in the following –
Map #2 : Biriyani varieties in India today
Source : https://twitter.com/tawairkh/status/1196489318447157251/photo/1
So how does one cater to such diverse, fast growing demand ?
Cue the Biriyani Entrepreneur…
Biriyani Entrepreneurs
Given its timeless (and growing) appeal, its no surprise that biriyani has seen many “entrepreneurs” who have taken this dish far and wide.
While the older generation household names like “Paradise” and “Hyderabad House” still abound, a more tech and marketing savvy next gen has emerged. And this tribe is no less exotic than the food they serve, ranging from a descendant of the Nawabs, a US returned techie and a major QSR chain – all of them striving to up the Biriyani game.
Most biriyani chains today have well researched menus, a standardized cooking process, hygienic, Covid safe kitchens, innovative packaging and fancy marketing strategies to attract the young Indian consumer. Startups like Rebel Foods’ Behrouz Biriyani and competitor Biriyani by Kilo are but a few promising ones.
India’s Dominos’s Pizza franchisee – Jubilant Foodworks – recently forayed into what can best be described as QSR Biriyani. Branded “EkDum”, it is an interesting approach to unlock hyper growth in this burgeoning market. I hope they’re evaluating a global play sometime soon.
Ms Manzilat Fatima is a Biriyani Entrepreneur with a difference. (https://www.manzilatfatima.com/) (centre – following pic). Descended from Lucknow’s erstwhile rulers, she combines traditional knowledge and a flair for cooking to create what could be called a “small batch” menu. Available only in Kolkata, India, her creations are winning acclaim and admirers there.
But all these miracles are to be found only in India. So when the Biriyani pang hits, where does the expat turn to ?
Divided by Brands – United by Biriyani – Entrepreneurs Old & New
The Toronto Trail
Thanks to its multicultural heritage, Toronto too has its share of Biriyani joints that cater to the homesick pangs of people like me – here are a select few.
My personal favourite is #1 – Chandni Chowk, for they care enough to check for your preferred Biriyani style (re Map #2). The others are pretty decent too. Hyderabadi biriyani outlets are quite prominent, and this space seems to be seeing a lot of activity despite the pandemic.
I’m still searching for a Lucknow special Biriyani place though – will keep you posted when I strike gold !
Epilogue
That was a quick, short look at the fascinating world of Biriyani. But this is barely the start, for the story of Biriyani is as complex and layered as the dish itself. There’s much more beyond this little effort, and if you’d like to know more, here are a few good places to start.
Biriyani Ordering Trends :
Biriyani v Pulao (Pilaf)
https://lbb.in/delhi/biryani-vs-pulao-really-difference/
History of Biriyani
Biriyani Entrepreneurs :