Category: Food

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Business Food India

The Remix Effect

Everything a Remix ?

Canadian film maker Kirby Ferguson shot to fame with his 2010 documentary that compared creative output over the years and claimed that it was virtually impossible to create something completely new without borrowing, copying or being inspired by existing material.

Hence his suggestion that “everything” was remixed.

Now whether you agree with that, or not, is up to you.

This story, however, is about a famous television commercial that was remixed. Not just once.

And of a few others that tried the remix approach.

Branding A Commodity

India’s National Dairy Development Board had successfully turned around the fortunes of its Dairy industy. By the early 1980s, India’s twin challenges of milk shortages and imports were history, and Amul wasn’t just a famous brand of milk, it was a sign of confidence, and a guarantee of quality to millions of its consumers.

The NDDB had achieved the holy grail that all players in the commodity space aspire to – they’d successfully turned a “boring” staple into a flourishing brand.

And it was this success that fueled their ambitions with another household category under their umbrella.

Cooking Oil.

Agricultural subsidies had helped keep NDDB’s brand – Dhara’s (Stream / Flow) prices low. But they’d also given the brand a distinctly “budget” air.

However, India’s post 1991 entry into the global economic playground meant that government’s tap would eventually be turned off.

And when prices eventually increased, shopper perception couldn’t reconcile the premium with the brand’s “down market” image.

Which resulted in both volume and share losses.

So the NDDB tried to replicate their Amul playbook with oil, and the famous “Jalebi” ad of 1996 was born.

The “Jalebi” Files

The ad featured a little boy running away from home because he’s been at the receiving end of many a ticking off, thanks to his proclivity for getting into trouble. A kindly postman persuades him to reconsider by telling him that his mother is making his favourite “Jalebi” sweet. All ends well with the postman safely bringing him home.

The ad received much love – for both its storyline and the cute protagonist, who went to act in a few movies.

I do remember being surprised at how he’d managed to evade another scolding for having attempted something that harebrained !

Nevertheless, the ad worked.

Dhara’s sales rebounded. And all was well.

Many years later, while thumbing through David Ogilvy’s eponymous book on advertising, I couldn’t help but wonder at this film’s similarities with pictures of another very old ad that stared me in the face.

Remix # 1 : The Hovis Ad

Hovis Bread – Ad film stills – Source : “Ogilvy on Advertising”

Debuting on British television during the late 70s, this film featured a boy running away to London from home with only a box of sandwiches for luggage. A kindly postman takes him back home after telling him he’ll need many more for this very long journey.

Little runaway boy – friendly postman – rescue based on a food premise – there are too many similarities to suggest anything but that the Dhara ad of 1996 was a “remix” of this one.

Remix #2 : Uber Eats

By 2018, many brands had realized the power of nostalgia and its multi generational appeal. Uber Eats chose to remix the ad from 1996 to “leverage” both.

Screen grab – Uber Eats Ad – 2018 – featuring the grown up kid from the original 1996 “Dhara” ad

Based on a similar premise – disagreement – runaway friend – food changing his mind (ordered on Uber Eats), the second remix was probably not as impactful (IMO), because what seems cute on a kid may not translate well onto an adult.

Epilogue

Its not unusual for ads to be remixed – entering into new markets often calls for “glocalizing” existing creative ideas – One prominent example of that is the Michael J Fox – Diet Pepsi film remade by PepsiCo India into the Aamir Khan – “Got a Pepsi” TVC.

Michael J Fox – Diet Pepsi – 1987 ad – remade with Aamir Khan into a Pepsico India TVC in the 90s

Brands may also feel the need to update their “classics” to align them with a newer social context. A famous (and debate inducing) example of such a remix was the Cadbury India film in which the newer version reversed gender roles from their 90s “Dancing Girl” film.

Tricky to pull off, it is much harder to recreate the impact of the original while attempting a remix.

And that probably makes the Hovis – Dhara remix and its subsequent reincarnation a twice born rarity !

Further reading :

The Dhara Ad Story : https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/lesser-known-stories-behind-the-20-year-old-iconic-dhara-jalebi-ad/articleshow/55683572.cms

Nostalgia Redux : https://theprint.in/features/dharas-jalebi-ad-from-the-1990s-still-means-home-and-family/421624/

The Pepsi Ads :

Michael J Fox : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_qykQWQgsc

Aamir Khan : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kw7lMtUks4Y

The Cadbury Ads :

Girl : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e7JATezA1nY

Boy : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_OtC06ndUE

The Dhara ad : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhzGDj31CVE

Categories
Food

The Story of Biriyani

Biriyani Blues…

Festivals or other cultural occasions help break the monotony and routine of daily life – much needed in these locked down times.

Thankfully, this has been a good month in that regard.

For in addition to it being a celebration of Asian Heritage, this was the month of Eid across large parts of the world.

One of those places is my hometown of Lucknow, India.  

Famous for its culture, love of art, and for being the home of gastronomic delight, Lucknow’s cultural legacy thrives to this day through its food. Biriyani is but one example of this rich tradition.

And Eid in Lucknow – the best time to savour this delicacy !

Unfortunately, since Covid has put travel plans to sleep, a trip back in time is one way to beat the Biriyani Blues.

So let’s dig right in…

A Brief History of….Biriyani

Birian is a Farsi (Persian) word meaning “Fried” – and Biriyani, a dish that blends rice, spices, meat (or vegetables) into a succulent combination.

But wait, you may ask – doesn’t that make it quite similar to Pilaf (Pilav / Paella / Pulao) ?

Yes, it does, but there are some differences as we’ll see in a bit.

Biriyani is India’s and probably the subcontinent’s – favourite takeout food. Popular Indian food delivery service Zomato revealed that they served 22 orders per minute between Jan- Dec 2020.

That totals to a whopping 4.4 million servings over the year. After movies and cricket, this is one of the few things Indians seem to agree on.

And that’s because Biriyani is :

  • A meal by itself, but can also be consumed as a snack, comfort food OR as the high point of a feast
  • Both street food and haute cuisine.
  • Available in many versions – mutton, chicken, beef, fish, veg
  • Adaptable- most regions of India have their own take on this dish. There is no “one” national Biriyani, but many tasty ones.

Dare I say that one may tire of eating, but cannot get tired of Biriyani !

There is however, one FAQ that stirs up spirited debate among Biriyani fans. The difference between Biriyani and Pulao (Pilaf).

Pilaf v Biriyani

Rice & meat / vegetables & other spices cooked together is a very popular food combination. Originating from Turkey, it travelled across the world and is now known by various names -Pilar, Pilaf, Paella, Pulau, et cetera.

This was probably a fast, easy way to consume proteins and carbs together. It may have been one of the first one pot meals, lending itself to easy adoption by travelling armies, or nomadic tribes (much of the world was nomadic then).

Preparing pilaf is a relatively (!) straight forward process. All the ingredients are combined and cooked together, and voila, its (easier said than) done.

But what’s this got to do with Biriyani? Doesn’t that combine all of these elements too?

Indeed. Like pilaf, biriyani too is a combination of rice and other “similar” ingredients.

The difference lies in the way they are prepared.

For unlike pilaf, biriyani is cooked in a two step process.

Rice and the other ingredients are semi – cooked separately, and then, stacked in alternate layers, they’re cooked together again.

The additional oil and spices, along with the effect of slow cooking imparts richer flavour to the combination.

This second step is where Biriyani takes on its own unique identity, which differentiates it from the pilaf.

Now, because our world is as beautiful as its wide, every country / region ended up developing its own version of this dish.

This is best illustrated by Biriyani’s journey and evolution in India.

Two Passages to India…

Biriyani is believed to have reached India through two routes – through contact with Mongol – Turkic armies and the flourishing sea trade with the Arab world.

In the North and the East, Biriyani followed the Mughal influence through the course of their empire, even as the Arab origin version evolved independently in the South and West

Map 1 : Biriyani routes to and within India

Source : http://indiahistoryspeaks.blogspot.com/2007_11_17_archive.html

With the passage of time, most regions shaped biriyani according to their local culinary heritage, which resulted in the following –

Map #2 : Biriyani varieties in India today

Source : https://twitter.com/tawairkh/status/1196489318447157251/photo/1

So how does one cater to such diverse, fast growing demand ?

Cue the Biriyani Entrepreneur…

Biriyani Entrepreneurs

Given its timeless (and growing) appeal, its no surprise that biriyani has seen many “entrepreneurs” who have taken this dish far and wide.

While the older generation household names like “Paradise” and “Hyderabad House” still abound, a more tech and marketing savvy next gen has emerged. And this tribe is no less exotic than the food they serve, ranging from a descendant of the Nawabs, a US returned techie and a major QSR chain – all of them striving to up the Biriyani game.

Most biriyani chains today have well researched menus, a standardized cooking process, hygienic, Covid safe kitchens, innovative packaging and fancy marketing strategies to attract the young Indian consumer. Startups like Rebel Foods’ Behrouz Biriyani and competitor Biriyani by Kilo are but a few promising ones.

India’s Dominos’s Pizza franchisee – Jubilant Foodworks – recently forayed into what can best be described as QSR Biriyani. Branded “EkDum”, it is an interesting approach to unlock hyper growth in this burgeoning market. I hope they’re evaluating a global play sometime soon.

Ms Manzilat Fatima is a Biriyani Entrepreneur with a difference. (https://www.manzilatfatima.com/) (centre – following pic). Descended from Lucknow’s erstwhile rulers, she combines traditional knowledge and a flair for cooking to create what could be called a “small batch” menu. Available only in Kolkata, India, her creations are winning acclaim and admirers there.

But all these miracles are to be found only in India. So when the Biriyani pang hits, where does the expat turn to ?

Divided by Brands – United by Biriyani – Entrepreneurs Old & New

The Toronto Trail

Thanks to its multicultural heritage, Toronto too has its share of Biriyani joints that cater to the homesick pangs of people like me – here are a select few.

My personal favourite is #1 – Chandni Chowk, for they care enough to check for your preferred Biriyani style (re Map #2). The others are pretty decent too. Hyderabadi biriyani outlets are quite prominent, and this space seems to be seeing a lot of activity despite the pandemic.

I’m still searching for a Lucknow special Biriyani place though – will keep you posted when I strike gold !

Epilogue

That was a quick, short look at the fascinating world of Biriyani. But this is barely the start, for the story of Biriyani is as complex and layered as the dish itself. There’s much more beyond this little effort, and if you’d like to know more, here are a few good places to start.

Biriyani Ordering Trends :

https://www.businessinsider.in/advertising/brands/article/indias-favourite-dish-biryani-was-the-most-ordered-dish-on-swiggy-zomato-and-dunzo/articleshow/80044347.cms

Biriyani v Pulao (Pilaf)

https://lbb.in/delhi/biryani-vs-pulao-really-difference/

History of Biriyani

https://www.news18.com/news/lifestyle/food-from-persia-to-your-plate-origin-history-and-types-of-biryani-1336569.html

Biriyani Entrepreneurs :

https://www.news18.com/news/lifestyle/food-from-persia-to-your-plate-origin-history-and-types-of-biryani-1336569.html

Categories
Food India

Maggi & Memories

To the Joy of Comfort Food...

We’re currently in the throes of a life changing experience, as we start afresh on Canadian shores.

While the thrill of the new keeps you going on most days, there does come a time when you long for a little bit of comfortable familiarity.

A refuge, where you momentarily relax, recharge emotional batteries, and resume your tilt at new windmills.

Food, in my experience, provides this succor, maybe even shelter.

That’s probably how the term “comfort food” came into being.

Finding Forrester…er.. Food.

While some wits have considered Canada to be an extension of Punjab, ground reality is a little different from this wishful perception.

Yes, Brampton does have its moments, but getting there by public transport is by itself good reason to remain at inertia of rest.

The food ranges from awful to pretty good, and success is only likely when you’ve Googled, planned and executed it like a military mission.

Take out or home delivery is constrained by budgets & sometimes, by conversion arithmetic.

Even if that weren’t the case, its not really easy to find something you’d easily relate to, for the flavors and spices have been adapted to suit the local palate and are suitably mild.

So where does a newly landed immigrant turn to?

Trawl the supermarket shelves. Hope to find something that makes up for the lack of other options.

Aimlessly wandering through aisles with arrays of mind boggling options, I had all but given up when I chanced upon a stack of Maggi.

On Sale ! 26c a pack (approx Rs 13) – Whoa. It says its a product of India !

Imported – With Indian spicy flavour !

All boxes checked – Truly a happy day indeed !

That was when the floodgates of memory opened.

Much Ado About Maggi.

Maggi and I have an enduring, one way relationship

It began when as a seven year old, I was hooked by the taste of the Capsica flavour (yes there was one then).

The bond grew stronger when like many other kids my age, I cut out the 2 minute noodles label, mailed it to the company and got enrolled in to the Maggi club.

They gave you a shiny metallic badge (see following pic), which quickly became an unofficial part of the school uniform. For the entire grade had signed up !

They also organized a fiercely contested school quiz. I remember insisting on participating in one of these, while ignoring a bout of high fever with the help of medication.

It was sad not winning the branded school bag that day, but the principal, Mrs Simlai, more than made up for it by giving me all the packets she’d received !

The first tentative steps into the world of cooking happened with it.

It soon became a regular fixture on the monthly shopping list.

Started to appear in school lunch boxes.

Also became the occasional dinner at some friends’ homes ! (a pleasant surprise, which upped their parents’ cool quotient 🙂 ) 

The other flavors bowed out to the sheer volume of Masala eaters. They did make a comeback later, but fizzled away soon.

Around 1997-99, someone decided that innovation was the order of the day, and changed its taste and formula.

All hell broke loose. Maggi didn’t taste good any more. The shop owners got earfuls of anguished feedback.

I guess sales would have declined, for things recovered eventually, and the usual, familiar formula was back on shelves.

College introduced me to delightful culinary variants like butter Maggi, Schezwan Maggi and egg Maggi. And unusual times of the day / night to have them.

Any opportunity to sample a new variant was taken up earnestly, at any time of the day. Living in NOIDA after graduation meant spending precious money at the Nescafe outlet in Sector 18.

The story continued during post graduation and of course, well into the job. Phone numbers of Maggi entrepreneurs were saved to ensure desk delivery. Places that served great variants identified and frequented. During this period, I also tried its various competitors like Top Ramen, Yippee, Cup Noodles, and Wai Wai. They have their own tribes of loyalists, but Noodles = Maggi as far as a large chunk of consumers is concerned.

As if this weren’t enough, I remember waking up hungry after a pretty hectic evening of partying at the Oktoberfest in Munich, and dashing to the grocery store nearby, for yes, you guessed it right.

And then one day, came the lead in Maggi controversy. All hell broke loose.

“ Naah, that can’t be. We’ve trusted it since so long”, someone said.

“I’d be full of lead by now ”, another opined.

“Maybe I am – in the brain”– I said to myself.

Obtaining Maggi became a cause to celebrate. Crafty entrepreneurs started to sell it in black, but they too ran out of stock.

Anyway, normalcy, and with it, my cherished pack of noodles eventually returned to shelves. A memorable occasion, worthy of the hype and celebration !

All went well from there on, till we made this move.

Things are looking up, and now that I have discovered where to find my favorite comfort food, all will be fairly right with the world !

As my kid grows up, there are days when she asks for her version of butter Maggi. I am not sure whether that’s the right thing to do, but I hope she enjoys it all the same, and goes on to acquire her own collection of Maggi memories.

For a hot, reassuring bowl will always be two minutes away !

PS : Thank you to the teams which launched, built and run this brand to the day – and to those who brought it to this market. More power to you !

#brand  #Maggi #India #Canada #immigrantlife #food